Damage Marks

X, XX, Y, S and H Damage Marks on Japanese Auction Sheets: Complete Guide

✍ By JP Sheet Verification Team ✓ Reviewed by JP Sheet Japan Auction Experts ⏱ 13 min read
Rust and bubbling paint around the rear wheel arch of an old car
AI illustration by JP Sheet
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Key Takeaways

  • X = panel needs replacement; XX = already replaced (most serious damage indicators)
  • Y marks = cracks or holes; Y1 (small) to Y3 (large)
  • S marks = rust; S3 means significant rust requiring repair
  • H marks = faded paint; cosmetic, fixed with a polish or a respray
  • Multiple X or XX marks on structural panels suggest serious past accident damage

X, XX, Y, S and H are five damage codes that matter more than everyday scratches. Unlike A (scratch) and U (dent), which record cosmetic wear, these tell you whether a panel needs replacing (X) or was already replaced (XX), whether there is a crack or hole (Y), rust (S) or faded paint (H). Here is what each one means for you as a buyer.

Quick Reference

CodeTypeSeverityConcern level
X Panel needs replacing Too damaged to repair High
XX Panel already replaced Work done before auction Medium
Y1 Small crack or hole Minor Low
Y2 Crack or hole Moderate Medium
Y3 Large crack or hole Significant High
S1 Light rust Treatable Low
S2 Rust Needs treatment Medium
S3 Heavy rust Needs repair High
H Paint faded Cosmetic Low

X Marks — Panel Needs Replacing

X means the inspector judged that panel or part too damaged to repair: it has to be replaced. It is written where the damage is, on a bumper, a door, a wing or a light. X usually appears on its own, without a 1 to 3 number.

Why it matters: the seller has not done the work. The cost of the new part, the paint to match it and the fitting passes to you, so price it in before you bid.

X
Plastic parts
What it is: A bumper, grille, lamp or trim piece that needs replacing.
Common locations: Front and rear bumpers, grilles, headlamps, mirror covers.
Repair: Replace the part and paint it to match.
Concern: Usually minor. A common result of parking knocks.
X
Metal outer panel
What it is: A door, wing, bonnet or boot lid that needs replacing.
Common locations: Doors, front wings, bonnet, tailgate.
Repair: New panel, paint matching and fitting.
Concern: Moderate. Check the panels around it for W (repair trace) marks.
X
Near the structure
What it is: Damage next to pillars, sills or the rear panel.
Common locations: Pillars, sills, rear panel, roof edges.
Repair: Specialist bodywork, sometimes welding.
Concern: High. Check the grade: R or RA means declared repair history.

XX Marks — Panel Already Replaced

XX

The panel has already been replaced

XX means the part was replaced before the auction. The work is done. The questions that matter are why it was replaced and how well.

One XX on a bumper after a parking knock is normal. Several XX marks on one corner of the car point to a real impact. Use the location to judge it:

XX LocationConcernWhat to check
Bumpers (plastic) Low — bumpers are replaced often Nothing more, unless other marks sit around it
Bonnet or front wings Medium — often a front-end knock W marks nearby, radiator support, panel gaps
Doors Medium — a side impact is possible Pillars and door gaps on the same side
Tailgate or boot lid Medium — often a rear knock Rear panel and boot floor
Several panels on one corner High — likely a significant impact Whether the car is graded R or RA (repair history)

Y Marks — Cracks and Holes

Y records a crack or a hole. The number shows how big: Y1 is small, Y2 is medium and Y3 is large. You see it most on plastic bumpers and trim, and sometimes where an accessory was removed and left holes behind.

Common Y mark situations and what they mean

S Marks — Rust

S records rust. S1 is light surface rust, S2 is rust that needs treatment and S3 is heavy rust that needs repair. Location matters more than the number: rust on a door edge is cosmetic, rust on a sill or under the car is not.

Cars from Japan's snowy north see road salt every winter and carry more rust. Read our guide to snow-region cars and rust before you bid on one. A separate code, C, records corrosion, a more advanced stage than S.

S1
Light rust
What it is: Early surface rust, paint mostly intact.
Common locations: Door edges, wheel arch lips, exhaust area.
Repair: Treat, prime and paint.
Concern: Low, if treated before it spreads.
S2
Rust
What it is: Rust that has taken hold and needs proper treatment.
Common locations: Sills, arches, boot lip, underbody.
Repair: Cut back, treat, fill and respray.
Concern: Medium. Worse if it is on a sill or underbody.
S3
Heavy rust
What it is: Advanced rust that needs repair, sometimes welding.
Common locations: Sills, floor, suspension mounts.
Repair: Section repair or welding.
Concern: High. Have the underside inspected before buying.

H Marks — Paint Faded

H records faded or tired paint, usually from years of sun. It is cosmetic: it does not mean damage to the metal. Some sheets add a number to show how bad it is.

Where H marks commonly appear

Dangerous Combinations to Watch For

Individual marks tell you about specific damage. Combinations of marks across a sheet reveal patterns that are more concerning than any single mark alone:

CombinationWhat it indicatesAction
XX on several panels, one corner A real impact on that corner Check the grade for R or RA, and inspect that corner
XX + W on the same side Panels replaced and others repaired after one impact Check pillars and sills on that side
X + Y on a bumper A cracked bumper that still needs replacing Price the new bumper in before you bid
S2 or S3 + C on sills or underbody Advanced rust in places that matter Underside inspection before purchase
H on roof and bonnet Sun-faded paint Cosmetic. Budget for a respray if it bothers you

Price Impact

MarkEffect on priceTypical repair
X on a plastic partSmallReplace and paint the part
X on a metal panelModerateNew panel, paint matching, fitting
XX, one panelSmall to moderateNone needed; check the quality of the work
XX, several panels or near structureLargeInspection; the car may carry repair history
Y1 to Y3SmallPlastic repair or a new bumper
S1 / S2Small to moderateRust treatment and paint
S3 on sills or underbodyLargeSection repair or welding
HSmallPolish or respray

Costs vary a lot by model and by country, so treat this as a guide to how serious each mark is rather than a price list.

See Every Mark on the Original Auction Sheet

Get the complete damage diagram with all X, XX, Y, S and H marks plus all auction photos directly from Japan's auction database. Delivered in under 60 seconds — from $8.

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

The pitfalls our verification team sees most often

1
Buying X-marked vehicles assuming 'easy repair'
X means the panel needs full replacement. Costs include new panel, paint, labor, and matching.
2
Walking away over H marks
H means faded paint, not damage to the metal. It is cosmetic, so do not let it put you off a car that is otherwise sound. Budget for a polish or a respray instead.
3
Treating S marks as minor
S3 rust requires immediate repair or it spreads — and may indicate hidden rust elsewhere.

Frequently Asked Questions

Quick answers to the questions buyers ask us most often. Tap any question to expand.

What does X mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
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X means the panel or part needs replacing. The inspector judged it too damaged to repair, and the cost of the new part, paint and fitting passes to the buyer.
What does XX mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
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XX means the panel has already been replaced before the auction. One XX on a bumper is normal; several XX marks on one corner point to a real impact, so check whether the car is graded R or RA.
What does Y mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
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Y means a crack or a hole. Y1 is small, Y2 medium and Y3 large. It appears most often on plastic bumpers and trim.
What does S mean on a Japanese auction sheet damage diagram?
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S means rust. S1 is light surface rust, S2 needs treatment and S3 is heavy rust that needs repair. Rust on sills or under the car matters far more than rust on a door edge.
What does H mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
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H means faded or tired paint, usually from sun exposure. It is cosmetic and is fixed with a polish or a respray.
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