What Is a Japanese Auction Sheet?
When a car is sold at a Japanese auction, a licensed inspector examines it from top to bottom and creates an official inspection report — the auction sheet. This document records the car's true condition at the time it was auctioned, including every scratch, dent, repaired panel, and mechanical issue found.
The auction sheet is the most reliable document about a Japanese used car. Unlike dealer descriptions or photos, it was created by a neutral third-party inspector at the auction house — with no incentive to hide problems. It is written in Japanese, which is why many buyers use JP Sheet to retrieve and verify the data.
💡 Key point: The auction sheet shows what the car was like when it left Japan. Any damage that happened after export will not appear on it.
Condition Grades
The overall condition grade is the most important number on the sheet. It is assigned by the inspector based on the exterior body condition, not the mechanical condition or age. Here is what each grade means:
S
Showroom
Virtually new. Extremely rare.
5
As New
No faults found. Excellent.
4.5
Very Clean
Minor blemish on one panel only
4
Good
Minor marks, light scratches
3.5
Average
Several blemishes, some dents
3
Rough
Noticeable damage, needs work
2
Poor
Serious damage or heavy rust
R
Repaired
Has accident history, repaired
RA
Repaired+
Airbag deployed, repaired
***
Flood/Fire
Major flood or fire damage
⚠️Important: Grade R or RA means accident history. The car may drive perfectly but structural repairs may affect long-term safety. Always get a full inspection before buying an R-grade vehicle.
What grade should I look for?
For everyday use: Grade 4 or higher is ideal. Grade 3.5 is acceptable if priced accordingly. Avoid Grade 3 or below unless you plan to repair. R and RA grade cars can be good deals if the repairs were done properly — but verify carefully.
Damage Codes
Damage codes are letters and numbers placed on a diagram of the car's body on the auction sheet. The letter indicates the type of damage, and the number (1, 2, 3, 4) indicates the severity — 1 being minor and 4 being severe.
A1–A4
Scratch
Surface scratch. A1 = light, A4 = deep gouge requiring repaint
B1–B4
Dent with scratch
Dent combined with paint damage. Severity increases with number.
U1–U4
Wave/Ripple
Panel has a wave or ripple — often from poor repair. U3+ needs professional attention.
W1–W4
Crease/Fold
Panel crease from impact. W3+ indicates significant collision damage.
S1–S3
Rust
S1 = surface rust (can be treated), S2 = noticeable rust, S3 = through-rust (hole)
C1–C3
Corrosion
Corrosion on body panels. C1 = minor, C3 = significant structural concern.
Y1–Y3
Hole/Crack
Y1 = small crack, Y3 = large hole. Usually from rust or severe impact.
P1–P3
Paint marks
Paint fading, peeling or discolouration. P1 = minor, P3 = full panel repaint needed.
H
Paint fade
Sun fade or oxidation. Common on bonnets and roofs of older vehicles.
E1–E3
Hail damage
Multiple small dents from hailstorm. E1 = light dimples, E3 = heavy damage.
X
Needs replacement
Part needs to be replaced — not repaired. See what panel it marks.
XX
Already replaced
Part has already been replaced. May indicate past accident repair.
🚨Red flag codes: Multiple XX marks (replaced panels) often indicate a serious accident history — even if the grade is 4 or above. Always check which panels have XX marks.
Interior Grade
Interior condition is graded separately from the body. The interior grade uses letters A through D. Most good imports will have A or B interior. Grade C or D indicates significant wear or damage.
A
Excellent
Clean, no stains or wear. Like new.
B
Good
Minor wear, very small marks only.
C
Average
Noticeable stains, wear or damage.
D
Poor
Heavy staining, torn seats, bad smell.
The interior grade is listed as a number/letter combination — for example 4B means overall grade 4 (good exterior) with B interior. A 5A is excellent condition inside and out.
Mileage & Odometer Symbols
The mileage shown is what the odometer read at the time of auction. However, the auction sheet also includes special symbols that indicate whether the mileage is trusted or suspicious:
| Symbol | Meaning | What to do |
|---|
| No symbol | Mileage considered accurate | Accept as stated |
| * (one star) | Mileage unverifiable — no service history | Accept with caution |
| ** (two stars) | Mileage appears too low for the car's condition | Treat mileage as unreliable |
| *** (three stars) | Meter tampering suspected | Avoid or verify carefully |
| – (dash) | Meter has been replaced | True mileage unknown |
⚠️A ** or *** mileage rating is a serious red flag. Sellers may have rolled back the odometer to increase the car's value. Always check mileage against the car's condition and service history.
Transmission Codes
The transmission type is listed with a short code on the auction sheet:
AT / FAT
Automatic transmission
MT / F5 / F6
Manual (5 or 6 speed)
4WD / AWD
Four-wheel drive
2WD / FF / FR
Two-wheel drive
Common Equipment Codes
The equipment section lists features fitted to the car. Common codes include:
AC / AAC
Air conditioning / Auto AC
PS / PW
Power steering / windows
TV / NAV
TV screen / navigation
LW / AW
Light alloy / allow wheels
ETC
Electronic toll collection
HID
HID / xenon headlights
Auction House Details
The auction sheet also shows information about where and when the car was sold:
Auction
Auction house name
USS, TAU, LAA, CAA, JU etc. Some houses are more reputable than others.
Lot No
Auction lot number
The vehicle's lot number at that specific auction. Used to identify the exact sale.
Date
Auction date
When the car was auctioned. Useful for cross-referencing with import records.
Price
Hammer price (Yen)
The sold price in Japanese Yen. Useful to gauge if you are paying a fair price.
Red Flags to Watch For
These are the most important warning signs on an auction sheet that indicate a risky vehicle:
🚨
R or RA grade
Indicates accident and repair history. Always requires extra inspection before purchase.
🚨
Multiple XX marks
Several replaced panels = significant past accident, even if grade looks acceptable.
🚨
*** mileage
Suspected meter tampering. Real mileage unknown — avoid unless very cheap.
🚨
*** overall rating
Flood or fire damage. Almost impossible to fully repair — avoid entirely.
🚨
Structural panels marked
Any damage marks on pillars (A, B, C pillars) or floor means structural damage.
⚠️
W3+ or U3+ marks
Significant crease or wave damage. Expensive to repair properly.
⚠️
S3 rust marks
Through-rust on body panels. May be structural issue.
⚠️
Interior grade C or D
Heavy wear or staining. Budget for full interior refurbishment.
⚠️
No service history
Mileage with * symbol. Cannot verify real history.
Verify your own chassis now
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Practical Tips for Buyers
How to use the auction sheet to negotiate
The damage codes and grade are your negotiating tool. If a dealer is selling a Grade 4 car but the sheet shows several A3 scratch marks and a U2 wave, the real repair cost should be reflected in the price. Use specific codes to push back: "The sheet shows A3 on the front door and a U2 wave on the rear — what is the repair estimate?"
What a good import looks like
A well-selected import typically has: Grade 4 or 4.5, interior grade A or B, mileage with no stars, no R or RA grade, no XX marks on major panels, and minor marks only on bumpers or edges (A1 or B1).
What to do when you can't read the sheet
If the seller provides a Japanese auction sheet and you can't read it, do not rely on their translation. Use JP Sheet to verify the chassis number directly — we retrieve the data straight from the auction database, not from the physical paper sheet. This prevents any tampering by the seller.
💡 Pro tip: Even if a seller shows you a clean-looking physical auction sheet, always verify the chassis number yourself. Physical sheets can be printed, edited, or completely fabricated.
