Grades S to R2 real sheetsDamage codesMileage symbolsRed flags
To read a Japanese auction sheet, check five things in order: the overall grade (top right — 4 or higher is good,
R or RA means a repaired accident), the mark next to the mileage (nothing = genuine, * = meter tampered, $ = meter replaced), the letters on the car
drawing (the letter is the damage type, the number is the size, XX = replaced panel), the inspector’s handwritten notes, and the chassis number
against the real auction record.
The sheet is written by the auction house’s own inspector, not the seller. Below, we read two real sheets box
by box and explain every grade, code and symbol in plain English.
When a car is sold at a Japanese auction, a licensed inspector examines it from top to bottom and fills out an official condition report — the auction sheet. It records the car’s true state at the moment it was sold: every scratch, dent, repaired panel, tyre depth and mechanical note found.
It is more trustworthy than any dealer photo or description because the inspector is a neutral third party with no stake in the sale. The downside is that it’s written in Japanese with industry shorthand — which is exactly what the rest of this page decodes.
💡
Key point. The sheet shows the car’s condition when it left Japan. Anything that happened after export — shipping damage, new repairs — won’t appear on it. Always read it together with the car’s current photos.
Two real sheets, box by box
Where is everything on the sheet?
Every auction house prints its own layout, but the same boxes are always there. Below are two real grade-4 sheets — one from
USS, one from TAA — read box by box in plain English.
Tap “Read this sheet box by box” to see every box cut from the real sheet, with its meaning. Tap “Open full size”
to zoom into the whole sheet.
Real USS auction sheet. USS prints its code key along the bottom of every sheet.
✅
What this sheet tells a buyer: a clean grade-4 body with light scratches and one glass chip, genuine mileage, and no replaced or repaired panels. The cabin is the weak point (interior C), and there is no spare tyre.
Read this sheet box by box · 15 boxes
1
出品番号 — Lot number
2039
The car’s number in that day’s sale. Lot + auction date + venue point to one exact record — that is what a verification checks.
2
初度登録 — First registration
R5 / 12 → Dec 2023
R = Reiwa. Add 2018 to get the year: R5 = 2023. Use the year converter below for any sheet.
3
車名 · ドア形状 · グレード — Model, body, grade
ヤリスクロス · 5W · ハイブリッドG
Toyota Yaris Cross, 5-door wagon, Hybrid G. Match this with the car you are offered — a different grade means a different car or a different
price.
4
評価点 · 外装 · 内装 — Grades
4 · C · C
Overall grade 4 = good, light marks only. The two letters grade the body paint (外装) and the cabin (内装) separately. C = average, with visible wear — box 14 shows why.
5
排気量 · 燃料 · 型式 — Engine, fuel, model code
1500 cc · ガソリン · 6AA-MXPJ10
ガソリン = petrol. 6AA = hybrid. MXPJ10 must match the start of the chassis number in box 13 —
here it does.
6
車歴 — How it was used
自家用 → private use
The best history type. All the history types are explained further down the page.
7
走行 — Mileage
79,367 km
Nothing is written next to the number, so the reading is accepted as genuine. See the mileage section for * and $.
8
シフト · エアコン — Gearbox, air-con
FAT · AAC
FAT = automatic with a floor shifter. AAC = automatic air-con.
9
外装色 · カラーNo. · 内装色 — Colours
クロ · 209 · クロ
Black outside (colour code 209), black inside. Check the colour against the real car — a different colour can mean a respray. This box also shows 5 seats (乗車定員).
10
セールスポイント — Sales points
★オークションデビュー★ · プッシュスタート
Seller’s highlights: “auction debut” (first time at auction) and push-button start. A report shows any earlier auction records for
the chassis.
11
純正装備 — Factory equipment
ABS · エアB · PS · PW
ABS brakes, airbags, power steering, power windows.
12
後日発送部品 — Sent after the sale
保証書 → warranty booklet
Items that follow the car later, not with it on auction day.
13
車台番号 — Chassis number
MXPJ10-3123223
The car’s unique ID. Match it with the car itself and with the auction record — this is exactly what a JP Sheet report checks.
14
検査員記入欄 — Inspector notes
5 handwritten lines
All cosmetic. Together they explain the interior grade C.
外装しみ、うすい線キズ — stains on the paint, faint line
scratches
シートすれ中 — seat wear, medium
室内汚れ — dirty interior
室内内張傷 — damage to the interior trim
ハンドルすれ — wear on the steering wheel
15
車両状態図 — Car drawing (front at the top)
A1 · A2 · G · [5] · レス
No XX (replaced) and no W (repair) marks — no panel was replaced or repaired.
Real TAA auction sheet. Number plate hidden for privacy.
⚠️
What this sheet tells a buyer: grade 4 with a good B interior and genuine mileage, but two medium dents on the left side and rust underneath. The car was registered in Niigata, a heavy-snow area with salted winter roads. Ask for photos of the underbody and the left side before you buy.
Read this sheet box by box · 14 boxes
1
No. — Lot number
3155
The car’s number in that day’s sale at TAA Hiroshima.
2
評価点 · 内装補助評価 — Grades
4 · B
Overall grade 4 = good. TAA gives the interior its own letter: B = good, light wear.
3
初度登録年月 — First registration
H30 / 3 → Mar 2018
H = Heisei. Add 1988 to get the year: H30 = 2018.
4
車名 · 形状 · グレード · 駆動 — Model
ホンダフィットハイブリッド · 5D · L ホンダセンシング · 2WD
Honda Fit Hybrid, 5-door, grade L with Honda Sensing (Honda’s safety-assist package), two-wheel drive.
5
排気量 · 型式 — Engine, model code
1500 cc · DAA-GP5
DAA = hybrid. GP5 matches the start of the chassis number in box 12.
6
車検 — Road inspection valid until
R9 / 3 / 18 → 18 Mar 2027
When Japan’s road-worthiness inspection (車検) runs out. R9 = 2027.
7
走行 — Mileage
92,378 km
Nothing is written next to the number, so the reading is accepted as genuine.
8
シフト · 冷房 — Gearbox, air-con
FAT · AAC
Automatic with a floor shifter, automatic air-con.
9
外色 · カラーNo · 内装色 · 燃料 — Colours,
fuel
ピンク · RP58M · ブラック系 · ガソリン
Pink outside (colour code RP58M), black inside, petrol (hybrid).
10
純正品 — Factory equipment
PS · PW · カワ · TV · ナビ · エアB
On TAA sheets the fitted items are circled: power steering, power windows, leather (half leather — see the notes), TV, navigation, airbags.
11
セールスポイント — Sales points
ユーザー買取車 · バックカメラ …
Bought directly from a private owner, reversing camera, remote engine starter, built-in ETC toll unit, push-button start.
12
車台No — Chassis number
GP5-3414388
The line above it (登録No) is the Japanese number plate — we hid it on this page.
13
検査員報告 — Inspector notes
6 handwritten lines
Careful: 下廻りサビ means rust underneath. 下廻りサビ止め (with 止め) means rust-proofing — one word flips the meaning.
ハーフレザー — half-leather seats
ルーム内スレうす汚れ — interior wear, light dirt
トリムキズ — scratches on the trim
外ホイールキズ — scratches on the wheels
下廻りサビ — rust underneath the car
各キズ凹 — scratches and dents in places
14
車両状態図 — Car drawing (front at the top)
A1 · AU2 · トビA
No XX and no W marks. The two AU2 marks on the left side are the main body work.
Front — A1, light scratch
Windscreen — トビA, small stone chip
Left side — AU2, AU2 — scratch with a dent, medium
Right side — A1
Rear — A1, A1
Japanese years on the sheet
Dates are written in Japanese eras. R = Reiwa (add 2018), H = Heisei (add 1988), S = Showa (add
1925). So R5 = 2023 and H30 = 2018 — just like the two sheets above.
R5 = 2023
📍
Don’t try to learn every box at once. In practice you check four things in order
— grade, mileage, car drawing, inspector notes. The 5-step method below shows exactly how.
The headline number
What do the overall grades (S, 5, 4, R) mean?
The overall grade is the inspector’s summary of the car’s exterior body condition — not its age or mechanical health. It runs on a scale, and where a car sits on that scale tells you most of what you need to know at a glance.
The grade scale at a glance — aim for 4 and above; treat R / RA with caution.
S
Showroom
Virtually new, often under 10,000 km. Rare.
5
As new
No faults found. Excellent example.
4.5
Very clean
One minor blemish on a single panel.
4
Good
Light marks and small scratches. Normal use.
3.5
Average
Several blemishes, perhaps small dents.
3
Rough
Clearly worn or damaged. Needs work.
2
Poor
Heavy damage or significant rust.
1
Very poor
Flood, fire or heavy modification.
R
Repaired
Accident damage to the structure, repaired.
RA
Repaired
Same as R — some auction houses write RA.
⚠️
R and RA mean accident history. The car may drive perfectly, but it was repaired after a collision — and repair quality varies. Also watch for cars marked for flood or fire damage (浸水 / 焼け), which are best avoided entirely. Always get an independent inspection before buying any R-grade car.
What grade should I aim for?
For everyday use, Grade 4 or higher is the comfortable zone. Grade 3.5 is fine if the price reflects it. Below Grade 3 you’re buying a project. R and RA cars can be genuine bargains when the repair was done well — but that’s exactly the thing you must verify, not assume.
The body diagram
What do the damage codes (A, U, B, W, XX) mean?
The body diagram is a top-down outline of the car. The inspector marks each panel with a letter and a number: the letter is the type of damage, and the number is the size — 1 small, 2 medium, 3 large (a few houses go up to 4). So A1 is a faint scratch; U3 is a large dent.
Each panel gets a code. The same letters appear in the inspector’s notes too.
The codes that matter most: an XX (replaced panel) or 歪 / ヒズミ (distortion) on a pillar, floor or frame points to a serious past accident — even when the overall grade still looks acceptable. Always check which panels carry these marks, not just the headline grade.
Inside the car
What do the interior grades (A to E) mean?
The interior is graded separately from the body, using letters A to E (some houses stop at D). A car can have a clean exterior but a tired cabin, so this letter matters. Most good imports come back as A or B.
A
Excellent
Clean and fresh. No stains or wear — like new.
B
Good
Light wear and a few very small marks only.
C
Average
Noticeable stains, wear or minor damage.
D
Poor
Heavy staining, torn trim or a strong smell.
E
Very poor
Heavy damage inside. Used by some houses only.
💡
You’ll often see the two grades joined together. 4B means overall grade 4 (good body) with a B interior. 5A is excellent inside and out.
Often overlooked
How do I read the tyre condition?
Each tyre is scored on the body diagram as a number out of 10 — the tread remaining. It’s an easy win: low numbers mean you’re buying new tyres soon, which is real money to factor into the price.
Tyre tread runs 0–10. Below 2 is a safety issue; 5 is fine for most buyers.
🚨
[0]–[1] Bald
Tread worn to the limit. Unsafe to drive — budget for new tyres immediately.
Danger
✅
[5] Half tread
Plenty of usable life for most buyers. No warning needed.
Fine
ℹ️
レス (resu) = none
Means “none”. スペアレス = no spare tyre supplied.
Note
❄️
スタッドレス
Studless winter (snow) tyres are fitted — not all-season.
Note
⚙️
社外アルミ
Aftermarket alloy wheels — not the factory set.
Note
Can you trust the odometer?
How do I read the mileage and its symbols?
The mileage box shows the odometer reading on auction day. What matters most is what the inspector writes next to the number. There
are three cases:
79,367 km
Nothing next to it — genuine
The
inspector accepts the reading. Both real sheets on this page look like this.
* 79,367
* next to it — meter tampered
The
reading has been changed. The real mileage is unknown.
$ 79,367
$ next to it — meter replaced
The
meter was swapped, so the number does not show the car’s true total. The real mileage is unknown.
⚠️
Zoom in before you decide. The * or $ can sit on the left or the
right of the number, and it is often small. A * or $ is a serious red flag — price the car as if the mileage is unknown, or walk away.
Compare it with the car’s past auctions
Many cars go through auction more than once. If an older record shows more kilometres than a newer one, the reading went backwards
between sales. A JP Sheet report lists the past auction records we find for the chassis, mileage included — verify a chassis
for $8.
Is the mileage normal for the car’s age?
Work out the kilometres per year and per month. A very low number on an older car deserves a second look.
First registration (初度登録)
Auction date
Fill in the boxes to see the result.
How the car was used
What does the vehicle history (車歴) tell me?
The 車歴 field shows how the car spent its life. Two cars with identical mileage can be worlds apart depending on this single line — a private car versus a driving-school car, for example.
自家用 — Private use
One private owner’s car. The best history you can see.
✓ Best
ワンオーナー — One owner
A single owner from new. Usually the best-kept cars.
✓ Strong
リース — Lease
A leased vehicle. Typically serviced on a strict schedule.
~ OK
社用 — Company car
Fleet or company car. Maintained, but often driven hard.
~ Check
レンタ — Rental
Ex-rental. Many different drivers; more wear per km. Price accordingly.
⚠ Caution
教習車 — Driving school
Extreme clutch and brake wear from learner use. Best avoided.
✗ Avoid
💡
A わ number plate on the registration also signals a rental or lease car — and rentals often get a shorter 2-year first inspection even when nearly new.
Features & transmission
What do the equipment and transmission codes mean?
The transmission is shown as a short code, and the factory features are listed as abbreviations. Here are the ones you’ll see most often.
Transmission
AT / FATAutomatic
MT / F5Manual (5/6 sp)
CVTContinuously variable
4WD / AWDFour-wheel drive
FF / FRFront / rear drive
Common equipment
ナビNavigation
TVTelevision
BカメラBack-up camera
エアB / ABAirbags
PSPower steering
PWPower windows
純AWGenuine alloy wheels
SRSunroof
カワ / 革Leather seats
ABSAnti-lock brakes
ETCToll transponder
スマートキーSmart key
⭘
Circled = fitted. On the real sheet, equipment that’s actually on the car is circled. An item that isn’t circled is not fitted — so don’t rely on a seller’s claim that it has features the sheet doesn’t mark.
Where & when it sold
What are the auction house details?
The sheet also records the sale itself. These details let you cross-check the car against import and auction records.
Auction house
USS, TAA, JU, CAA and others. The venue that inspected and sold the car.
Lot number
The car’s lot at that specific sale — identifies the exact transaction.
Auction date
When it was sold. Useful for matching to shipping and import records.
Hammer price (¥)
The final sold price in yen — a reality check on what you’re being asked to pay.
⚠️
A car that shows up at auction several times in a short span is a warning sign — buyers may have inspected it and walked away, or the grade was re-presented to look better. Compare every listing for the same chassis.
The most honest lines
How do I read the inspector’s handwritten notes?
The handwritten remarks are the most revealing part of the sheet. This is where the inspector records things the grade can’t capture — including mechanical issues. A Grade 4 car can still have a fault written here, so these lines are worth translating word for word.
シートシワ
Seat creasing
Cosmetic
ルーム内汚れ
Interior soiling / dirt
Cosmetic
ホイールキズ
Wheel / alloy scratches
Cosmetic
下廻りサビ止め
Underbody rustproofing applied — preventive, not active rust
Note
修復歴あり
Repair history confirmed
Critical
ヒズミ / 歪
Distortion — structural
Critical
事故現状車
Accident car, sold as-is
Critical
後日発送
A part or document will follow later
Admin
🔍
One phrase trips up many buyers: 下廻りサビ止め means underbody rust-prevention was applied — it’s a good thing, not a sign of rust. Context like this is why a careful translation beats a quick guess.
When to walk away
What red flags should I watch for?
Put it all together and a handful of warning signs should make you pause — or walk away. The most serious are anything pointing to structural damage or a dishonest odometer.
🚨
R or RA grade
Declared accident and structural repair history.
Critical
🚨
XX on a pillar or frame
A replaced structural panel — serious past accident.
Critical
🚨
歪 / distortion
Frame or B-pillar distortion. Safety-critical.
Critical
🚨
* or $ next to the mileage
* = meter tampered, $ = meter replaced. Either way the true mileage is unknown.
Critical
⚠️
Several XX panels
Multiple replaced panels even if the grade looks fine.
High
⚠️
Grade drops across re-listings
A 4.5 that becomes an R later — damage found between sales.
High
⚠️
Interior grade C or D
Heavy wear or staining. Budget for a refurbishment.
Caution
ℹ️
レンタ with low mileage
Rental use is not the same as one careful owner.
Note
ℹ️
Paper sheet only
If it can’t be verified, it could be edited or fake.
Note
Don’t want to decode it yourself?
Order a Deeper Scan and you get two links: your verified auction report, plus the Deeper Scan — a plain-English translation, 9-point risk audit, market valuation and full auction history. Or just verify the chassis number against the original record.
You don’t need to read every box. In practice, run these five checks in order and you’ll catch almost every problem car.
1
Check the overall grade
Top-right box. Grade 4+ is good; R or RA means accident history. Read this first.
2
Check the mark next to the mileage
Nothing next to it = genuine. * = meter tampered. $ = meter replaced — the true mileage is unknown.
3
Read the body diagram
Look for XX or 歪 on pillars and frame first, then check the severity numbers on each panel.
4
Read the inspector notes
Handwritten Japanese. This is where mechanical faults and repair history are recorded.
5
Verify the chassis number
Cross-check against the auction database — never trust the paper sheet alone.
✅
What a great import looks like: Grade 4–4.5, interior A or B, nothing written next to the mileage, no R/RA, no XX on major panels, and only light A1/B1 marks on bumpers and edges.
Questions buyers ask
Official sources
Background reading from official auction, government and industry bodies.
USS
Co., Ltd. — official site of Japan's largest car auction group
AFTC
— Automobile Fair Trade Council (自動車公正取引協議会),
sets the rules for describing used cars in Japan, including repair history
MLIT
— Japan's Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism, which runs the 車検
road inspection
Founder of JP Sheet (since 2023), Japanese car exporter since 2018.
Updated 13 Nov 2026 · Both sheets on this page are real auction sheets.
JP Sheet is independent. We are not linked with USS, TAA or any auction house — their names are used only to explain their
sheets.
Frequently asked questions
What are the most important parts of an auction sheet?
Five things carry most of the weight: the overall grade (top-right), the mileage and any mark written next to it, the body damage diagram, the inspector’s handwritten notes, and the equipment list. Of these, the damage diagram is the single most revealing — it exposes accident history that a healthy-looking grade can hide.
What does grade S mean?
Grade S is the top grade — a brand-new or near-new car, usually under 10,000 km, in showroom condition. It’s rare at auction and priced accordingly. Most quality imports you’ll find are Grade 4 to 4.5, not S.
What is the difference between R and RA grade?
R means accident history with structural repair — the chassis or frame was damaged and fixed. RA means the same thing — some auction houses write R, others write RA. Both indicate a past collision. Neither is automatically a deal-breaker, but both demand an independent inspection, because the quality of the repair is what really matters.
What do codes like A1, U2 and XX mean?
The letter is the damage type and the number is the size (1 small, 2 medium, 3 large). So A1 is a light scratch, U2 is a medium dent, and X means a part needs replacing — with XX meaning it has already been replaced. See our damage codes guide for every letter and size.
Can a dealer fake or edit an auction sheet?
Yes — a physical or photographed sheet can be edited, reprinted or completely fabricated. That’s exactly why you shouldn’t rely on the paper a seller hands you. The safe method is to verify the chassis number against the original auction record, which is what JP Sheet does — any edits to the paper copy are exposed.
Is a Grade 3.5 car worth buying?
It can be, if the price reflects the condition. Grade 3.5 means several blemishes and perhaps small dents — normal for an older car. Read the diagram: if the marks are minor (A1, B1 on bumpers and edges) it’s fine, but multiple XX marks or a W3/U3 mean real damage, so budget for repairs or negotiate the price down.
How reliable is the auction grade versus a dealer’s description?
Far more reliable. The grade is assigned by a neutral, licensed inspector with no stake in the sale; a dealer’s description is marketing. When the two disagree, trust the sheet — which is the whole reason buyers verify the original record instead of the dealer’s word.
Does the grade cover the car’s mechanical condition?
No. The overall grade is based mainly on body and exterior condition, not the engine, gearbox or electronics. Mechanical issues are noted separately in the inspector’s handwritten remarks — another reason that section is worth translating carefully.
What if the car was auctioned more than once?
A car that appears at auction several times in a short period is a warning sign — buyers may have inspected it and passed, or the grade/venue was changed to present it more favourably. If you see multiple records for the same chassis, compare them carefully. A Deeper Scan surfaces the full history and flags re-listing patterns automatically.
Now you can read it
See the real data behind any sheet
Enter a chassis number and get the authentic auction record — grade, damage, mileage and notes — straight from Japan’s auction houses, from $8.
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