Every grade, damage code, tyre mark and inspector note — decoded in plain English, with diagrams. The same sheet our specialists read for buyers every day.
Grades S to RDamage diagramMileage starsInspector notesRed flags
A Japanese auction sheet is the single most honest document about a used Japanese car — written by a neutral inspector, not the seller. The catch: it’s in Japanese shorthand. This guide walks through every part of it, top to bottom, so you can read one yourself in minutes.
The basics
What is a Japanese auction sheet?
When a car is sold at a Japanese auction, a licensed inspector examines it from top to bottom and fills out an official condition report — the auction sheet. It records the car’s true state at the moment it was sold: every scratch, dent, repaired panel, tyre depth and mechanical note found.
It is more trustworthy than any dealer photo or description because the inspector is a neutral third party with no stake in the sale. The downside is that it’s written in Japanese with industry shorthand — which is exactly what the rest of this page decodes.
💡
Key point. The sheet shows the car’s condition when it left Japan. Anything that happened after export — shipping damage, new repairs — won’t appear on it. Always read it together with the car’s current photos.
The layout
Where is everything on the sheet?
Every auction sheet follows the same layout. Once you know the twelve key zones, any sheet becomes readable. The numbers on the sheet below match the cards underneath — each one is explained in full further down the page.
A typical sheet layout. Numbers ①–⑪ map to the cards below.
1
評価点 — Overall grade
4.5
Top-right box. The headline score: S, 6, 5, 4.5, 4, 3.5, 3, R or RA. Read this first.
2
外装 / 内装 — Exterior & interior grade
B / A
Two separate letters. Exterior runs A–E, interior A–D. A 4.5 car can still have a worn B interior.
3
走行 — Mileage
15,576 km
The odometer reading at auction. Star symbols next to it flag doubt; no star means it’s trusted.
4
車歴 — Vehicle history
自家用
How the car was used. 自家用 private (best), レンタ rental, 社用 company, 教習車 driving school.
5
純正装備品 — Equipment
SR · ナビ · PW
Factory equipment list. A circled item is fitted; not circled means it is not fitted.
6
セールスポイント — Sales points
★ Leather · Push-start
Highlights declared by the seller. Useful, but not independently checked by the inspector.
7
車台番号 — Chassis number
GR3-1322650
The car’s unique ID. Always verify this against the auction database — it links the paper to the real record.
8
検査員記入欄 — Inspector notes
Handwritten JP
The inspector’s own remarks. Often reveals issues the grade alone hides — the most valuable lines on the sheet.
9
車両状態図 — Body diagram
A2 · U2 · XX · [7]
Top-down car outline with a damage code on each panel. Numbers in brackets, like [7], are tyre tread.
10
初度登録 — First registration
R5/2 → Feb 2023
When first registered. R = Reiwa (add 2018), H = Heisei (add 1988). R5 = 2023.
11
車検 — Shaken (road inspection)
R8/2 → Feb 2026
Expiry of the Japanese roadworthiness inspection. Blank or past means a re-inspection is due.
Don’t try to memorise all twelve at once. In practice you check four things in order — grade, mileage, body diagram, inspector notes. The 5-step method at the bottom shows exactly how.
The headline number
What do the overall grades (S, 5, 4, R) mean?
The overall grade is the inspector’s summary of the car’s exterior body condition — not its age or mechanical health. It runs on a scale, and where a car sits on that scale tells you most of what you need to know at a glance.
The grade scale at a glance — aim for 4 and above; treat R / RA with caution.
S
Showroom
Virtually new, often under 10,000 km. Rare.
5
As new
No faults found. Excellent example.
4.5
Very clean
One minor blemish on a single panel.
4
Good
Light marks and small scratches. Normal use.
3.5
Average
Several blemishes, perhaps small dents.
3
Rough
Clearly worn or damaged. Needs work.
2
Poor
Heavy damage or significant rust.
R
Repaired
Accident history with structural repair.
RA
Repaired+
Lighter accident repair / airbag deployed.
⚠️
R and RA mean accident history. The car may drive perfectly, but it was repaired after a collision — and repair quality varies. Also watch for cars marked for flood or fire damage (浸水 / 焼け), which are best avoided entirely. Always get an independent inspection before buying any R-grade car.
What grade should I aim for?
For everyday use, Grade 4 or higher is the comfortable zone. Grade 3.5 is fine if the price reflects it. Below Grade 3 you’re buying a project. R and RA cars can be genuine bargains when the repair was done well — but that’s exactly the thing you must verify, not assume.
The body diagram
What do the damage codes (A, U, B, W, XX) mean?
The body diagram is a top-down outline of the car. The inspector marks each panel with a letter and a number: the letter is the type of damage, and the number (1–4) is the severity — 1 is minor, 4 is severe. So A1 is a faint scratch; U4 is a deep dent.
Each panel gets a code. The same letters appear in the inspector’s notes too.
A dent combined with a scratch. Severity rises with the number.
W
Repair trace · 補修跡
Sign of past repair or repainting on the panel.
XX
Replaced · 交換済
This panel was already replaced. Often signals accident repair.
X
Needs replacing · 要交換
Damaged beyond repair — the panel must be replaced.
P
Needs repaint · 要塗装
Paint damage or fade; the panel needs repainting.
S
Rust · 錆
Rust. S1 surface → S3 through-rust (a hole).
C
Corrosion · 腐食
Corrosion eating into the metal. Worse than surface rust.
G
Glass chip · 飛石 / トビ
A stone chip or crack in the glass.
Z
Broken · 割れ
A cracked or broken part.
歪 ヒズミ
Distortion · 構造
Frame or pillar distortion. Structural — a serious red flag.
🚨
The codes that matter most: an XX (replaced panel) or 歪 / ヒズミ (distortion) on a pillar, floor or frame points to a serious past accident — even when the overall grade still looks acceptable. Always check which panels carry these marks, not just the headline grade.
Inside the car
What do the interior grades (A, B, C, D) mean?
The interior is graded separately from the body, using letters A to D. A car can have a clean exterior but a tired cabin, so this letter matters. Most good imports come back as A or B.
A
Excellent
Clean and fresh. No stains or wear — like new.
B
Good
Light wear and a few very small marks only.
C
Average
Noticeable stains, wear or minor damage.
D
Poor
Heavy staining, torn trim or a strong smell.
💡
You’ll often see the two grades joined together. 4B means overall grade 4 (good body) with a B interior. 5A is excellent inside and out.
Often overlooked
How do I read the tyre condition?
Each tyre is scored on the body diagram as a number out of 10 — the tread remaining. It’s an easy win: low numbers mean you’re buying new tyres soon, which is real money to factor into the price.
Tyre tread runs 0–10. Below 2 is a safety issue; 5 is fine for most buyers.
🚨
[0]–[1] Bald
Tread worn to the limit. Unsafe to drive — budget for new tyres immediately.
Danger
✅
[5] Half tread
Plenty of usable life for most buyers. No warning needed.
Fine
ℹ️
レス (resu) = none
Means “none”. スペアレス = no spare tyre supplied.
Note
❄️
スタッドレス
Studless winter (snow) tyres are fitted — not all-season.
Note
⚙️
社外アルミ
Aftermarket alloy wheels — not the factory set.
Note
Can you trust the odometer?
How do I read the mileage and its symbols?
The mileage is the odometer reading at auction — but the inspector also adds a symbol that tells you whether that number can be trusted. This is your built-in odometer-fraud check.
The star symbol grades how much you can trust the odometer reading.
Symbol
Meaning
What to do
No symbol
Mileage is considered accurate
Accept as stated
★ one star
Unverifiable — no service record to confirm
Accept with caution
★★ two stars
Reading looks too low for the car’s condition
Treat as unreliable
★★★ three stars
Odometer tampering suspected
Avoid, or verify carefully
– dash
The meter was replaced
True mileage unknown
⚠️
A ★★ or ★★★ rating is a serious red flag. The seller may have wound the odometer back to lift the price. Always check the mileage against the car’s actual condition and any service history.
How the car was used
What does the vehicle history (車歴) tell me?
The 車歴 field shows how the car spent its life. Two cars with identical mileage can be worlds apart depending on this single line — a private car versus a driving-school car, for example.
自家用 — Private use
One private owner’s car. The best history you can see.
✓ Best
ワンオーナー — One owner
A single owner from new. Usually the best-kept cars.
✓ Strong
リース — Lease
A leased vehicle. Typically serviced on a strict schedule.
~ OK
社用 — Company car
Fleet or company car. Maintained, but often driven hard.
~ Check
レンタ — Rental
Ex-rental. Many different drivers; more wear per km. Price accordingly.
⚠ Caution
教習車 — Driving school
Extreme clutch and brake wear from learner use. Best avoided.
✗ Avoid
💡
A わ number plate on the registration also signals a rental or lease car — and rentals often get a shorter 2-year first inspection even when nearly new.
Features & transmission
What do the equipment and transmission codes mean?
The transmission is shown as a short code, and the factory features are listed as abbreviations. Here are the ones you’ll see most often.
Transmission
AT / FATAutomatic
MT / F5Manual (5/6 sp)
CVTContinuously variable
4WD / AWDFour-wheel drive
FF / FRFront / rear drive
Common equipment
ナビNavigation
TVTelevision
BカメラBack-up camera
エアB / ABAirbags
PSPower steering
PWPower windows
純AWGenuine alloy wheels
SRSunroof
カワ / 革Leather seats
ABSAnti-lock brakes
ETCToll transponder
スマートキーSmart key
⭘
Circled = fitted. On the real sheet, equipment that’s actually on the car is circled. An item that isn’t circled is not fitted — so don’t rely on a seller’s claim that it has features the sheet doesn’t mark.
Where & when it sold
What are the auction house details?
The sheet also records the sale itself. These details let you cross-check the car against import and auction records.
Auction house
USS, TAA, JU, CAA and others. The venue that inspected and sold the car.
Lot number
The car’s lot at that specific sale — identifies the exact transaction.
Auction date
When it was sold. Useful for matching to shipping and import records.
Hammer price (¥)
The final sold price in yen — a reality check on what you’re being asked to pay.
⚠️
A car that shows up at auction several times in a short span is a warning sign — buyers may have inspected it and walked away, or the grade was re-presented to look better. Compare every listing for the same chassis.
The most honest lines
How do I read the inspector’s handwritten notes?
The handwritten remarks are the most revealing part of the sheet. This is where the inspector records things the grade can’t capture — including mechanical issues. A Grade 4 car can still have a fault written here, so these lines are worth translating word for word.
シートシワ
Seat creasing
Cosmetic
ルーム内汚れ
Interior soiling / dirt
Cosmetic
ホイールキズ
Wheel / alloy scratches
Cosmetic
下廻りサビ止め
Underbody rustproofing applied — preventive, not active rust
Note
修復歴あり
Repair history confirmed
Critical
ヒズミ / 歪
Distortion — structural
Critical
事故現状車
Accident car, sold as-is
Critical
後日発送
A part or document will follow later
Admin
🔍
One phrase trips up many buyers: 下廻りサビ止め means underbody rust-prevention was applied — it’s a good thing, not a sign of rust. Context like this is why a careful translation beats a quick guess.
When to walk away
What red flags should I watch for?
Put it all together and a handful of warning signs should make you pause — or walk away. The most serious are anything pointing to structural damage or a dishonest odometer.
🚨
R or RA grade
Declared accident and structural repair history.
Critical
🚨
XX on a pillar or frame
A replaced structural panel — serious past accident.
Multiple replaced panels even if the grade looks fine.
High
⚠️
Grade drops across re-listings
A 4.5 that becomes an R later — damage found between sales.
High
⚠️
Interior grade C or D
Heavy wear or staining. Budget for a refurbishment.
Caution
ℹ️
レンタ with low mileage
Rental use is not the same as one careful owner.
Note
ℹ️
Paper sheet only
If it can’t be verified, it could be edited or fake.
Note
Don’t want to decode it yourself?
Upload your sheet and our specialists return a plain-English translation, a 9-point risk audit, market valuation and full auction history — usually within the hour. Or verify any chassis number against the original record in seconds.
You don’t need to read every box. In practice, run these five checks in order and you’ll catch almost every problem car.
1
Check the overall grade
Top-right box. Grade 4+ is good; R or RA means accident history. Read this first.
2
Check mileage & stars
No star means trusted. Two or three stars means tampering — reject unless very cheap.
3
Read the body diagram
Look for XX or 歪 on pillars and frame first, then check the severity numbers on each panel.
4
Read the inspector notes
Handwritten Japanese. This is where mechanical faults and repair history are recorded.
5
Verify the chassis number
Cross-check against the auction database — never trust the paper sheet alone.
✅
What a great import looks like: Grade 4–4.5, interior A or B, mileage with no stars, no R/RA, no XX on major panels, and only light A1/B1 marks on bumpers and edges.
Questions buyers ask
Frequently asked questions
What are the most important parts of an auction sheet?
Five things carry most of the weight: the overall grade (top-right), the mileage and its star symbol, the body damage diagram, the inspector’s handwritten notes, and the equipment list. Of these, the damage diagram is the single most revealing — it exposes accident history that a healthy-looking grade can hide.
What does grade S mean?
Grade S is the top grade — a brand-new or near-new car, usually under 10,000 km, in showroom condition. It’s rare at auction and priced accordingly. Most quality imports you’ll find are Grade 4 to 4.5, not S.
What is the difference between R and RA grade?
R means accident history with structural repair — the chassis or frame was damaged and fixed. RA generally means lighter accident repair, often a cosmetic fix or a deployed airbag. Both indicate a past collision. Neither is automatically a deal-breaker, but both demand an independent inspection, because the quality of the repair is what really matters.
What do codes like A1, U2 and XX mean?
The letter is the damage type and the number is the severity (1 minor → 4 severe). So A1 is a light scratch, U2 is a medium dent, and X means a part needs replacing — with XX meaning it has already been replaced. See the full damage-code list above for every letter: A, U, B, W, S, C, P, G, X and XX.
Can a dealer fake or edit an auction sheet?
Yes — a physical or photographed sheet can be edited, reprinted or completely fabricated. That’s exactly why you shouldn’t rely on the paper a seller hands you. The safe method is to verify the chassis number against the original auction record, which is what JP Sheet does — any edits to the paper copy are exposed.
Is a Grade 3.5 car worth buying?
It can be, if the price reflects the condition. Grade 3.5 means several blemishes and perhaps small dents — normal for an older car. Read the diagram: if the marks are minor (A1, B1 on bumpers and edges) it’s fine, but multiple XX marks or a W3/U3 mean real damage, so budget for repairs or negotiate the price down.
How reliable is the auction grade versus a dealer’s description?
Far more reliable. The grade is assigned by a neutral, licensed inspector with no stake in the sale; a dealer’s description is marketing. When the two disagree, trust the sheet — which is the whole reason buyers verify the original record instead of the dealer’s word.
Does the grade cover the car’s mechanical condition?
No. The overall grade is based mainly on body and exterior condition, not the engine, gearbox or electronics. Mechanical issues are noted separately in the inspector’s handwritten remarks — another reason that section is worth translating carefully.
What if the car was auctioned more than once?
A car that appears at auction several times in a short period is a warning sign — buyers may have inspected it and passed, or the grade/venue was changed to present it more favourably. If you see multiple records for the same chassis, compare them carefully. A Deeper Scan surfaces the full history and flags re-listing patterns automatically.
Now you can read it
See the real data behind any sheet
Enter a chassis number and get the authentic auction record — grade, damage, mileage and notes — straight from Japan’s auction houses, from $7.
We use cookies to provide essential site functions, analyze traffic, and (with your consent) personalize ads on Facebook, Instagram, TikTok & Google. See our Cookie Policy & Privacy Policy.
Cookie preferences
Choose which cookies you allow. You can change your choices anytime by clicking "Cookie settings" in the footer. Read our Cookie Policy for full details.
Strictly Necessary
Required for the site to function — login, checkout, security, fraud prevention. Cannot be disabled.
Used by: JP Sheet session, payment processors
Analytics
Helps us understand how visitors use the site so we can improve it. Anonymized IP, no personal identification.
Used by: Google Analytics 4
Marketing & Advertising
Used to show you relevant ads on social media and search platforms, and measure ad performance.
Used by: Meta (Facebook/Instagram) Pixel, TikTok Pixel, Google Ads conversion tracking
