A complete guide to reading and understanding every section of a Japanese car auction sheet — grades, damage codes, mileage, interior, equipment and warning signs.
When a car is sold at a Japanese auction, a licensed inspector examines it from top to bottom and creates an official inspection report — the auction sheet. This document records the car's true condition at the time it was auctioned, including every scratch, dent, repaired panel, and mechanical issue found.
The auction sheet is the most reliable document about a Japanese used car. Unlike dealer descriptions or photos, it was created by a neutral third-party inspector at the auction house — with no incentive to hide problems. It is written in Japanese, which is why many buyers use JP Sheet to retrieve and verify the data.
The overall condition grade is the most important number on the sheet. It is assigned by the inspector based on the exterior body condition, not the mechanical condition or age. Here is what each grade means:
For everyday use: Grade 4 or higher is ideal. Grade 3.5 is acceptable if priced accordingly. Avoid Grade 3 or below unless you plan to repair. R and RA grade cars can be good deals if the repairs were done properly — but verify carefully.
Damage codes are letters and numbers placed on a diagram of the car's body on the auction sheet. The letter indicates the type of damage, and the number (1, 2, 3, 4) indicates the severity — 1 being minor and 4 being severe.
Surface scratch. A1 = light, A4 = deep gouge requiring repaint
Dent combined with paint damage. Severity increases with number.
Panel has a wave or ripple — often from poor repair. U3+ needs professional attention.
Panel crease from impact. W3+ indicates significant collision damage.
S1 = surface rust (can be treated), S2 = noticeable rust, S3 = through-rust (hole)
Corrosion on body panels. C1 = minor, C3 = significant structural concern.
Y1 = small crack, Y3 = large hole. Usually from rust or severe impact.
Paint fading, peeling or discolouration. P1 = minor, P3 = full panel repaint needed.
Sun fade or oxidation. Common on bonnets and roofs of older vehicles.
Multiple small dents from hailstorm. E1 = light dimples, E3 = heavy damage.
Part needs to be replaced — not repaired. See what panel it marks.
Part has already been replaced. May indicate past accident repair.
Interior condition is graded separately from the body. The interior grade uses letters A through D. Most good imports will have A or B interior. Grade C or D indicates significant wear or damage.
The interior grade is listed as a number/letter combination — for example 4B means overall grade 4 (good exterior) with B interior. A 5A is excellent condition inside and out.
The mileage shown is what the odometer read at the time of auction. However, the auction sheet also includes special symbols that indicate whether the mileage is trusted or suspicious:
| Symbol | Meaning | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| No symbol | Mileage considered accurate | Accept as stated |
| * (one star) | Mileage unverifiable — no service history | Accept with caution |
| ** (two stars) | Mileage appears too low for the car's condition | Treat mileage as unreliable |
| *** (three stars) | Meter tampering suspected | Avoid or verify carefully |
| – (dash) | Meter has been replaced | True mileage unknown |
The transmission type is listed with a short code on the auction sheet:
The equipment section lists features fitted to the car. Common codes include:
The auction sheet also shows information about where and when the car was sold:
USS, TAU, LAA, CAA, JU etc. Some houses are more reputable than others.
The vehicle's lot number at that specific auction. Used to identify the exact sale.
When the car was auctioned. Useful for cross-referencing with import records.
The sold price in Japanese Yen. Useful to gauge if you are paying a fair price.
These are the most important warning signs on an auction sheet that indicate a risky vehicle:
Don't want to decode A1/B1/XX yourself? Upload your sheet and our specialists deliver English translation + 9-point risk audit + market valuation + auction history in 30 minutes average. From $5 for translation only, or $15 for the full Deeper Scan.
The damage codes and grade are your negotiating tool. If a dealer is selling a Grade 4 car but the sheet shows several A3 scratch marks and a U2 wave, the real repair cost should be reflected in the price. Use specific codes to push back: "The sheet shows A3 on the front door and a U2 wave on the rear — what is the repair estimate?"
A well-selected import typically has: Grade 4 or 4.5, interior grade A or B, mileage with no stars, no R or RA grade, no XX marks on major panels, and minor marks only on bumpers or edges (A1 or B1).
If the seller provides a Japanese auction sheet and you can't read it, do not rely on their translation. Use JP Sheet to verify the chassis number directly — we retrieve the data straight from the auction database, not from the physical paper sheet. This prevents any tampering by the seller.
Common questions buyers ask when learning to read a Japanese auction sheet for the first time.
The five sections that matter most are: the overall grade (top-right corner), the mileage with its star symbols, the body damage diagram with letter-number codes, the inspector's handwritten remarks, and the equipment list. Of these, the damage diagram is the single most important — it reveals accident history that the grade alone can hide.
Grade S is the highest grade — a brand-new or near-new car, usually with under 10,000 km, no damage, and showroom condition. It is very rare at auction and commands the highest prices. Most quality imports you will find are Grade 4 to 4.5, not S.
R grade means the car has accident history with structural repair — the chassis or frame was damaged and fixed. RA grade generally means lighter accident history, often where an airbag deployed or the repair was cosmetic. Both indicate the car was in a collision. Neither is automatically a deal-breaker, but both require a thorough independent inspection before you buy, because the quality of the repair is what matters.
The letter is the damage type and the number is the severity (1 = minor, up to 3 or 4 = severe). So A1 is a light scratch, B2 is a medium dent with paint damage, and X means a part needs replacement (with XX meaning it has already been replaced). See the full damage-code table above for every letter — A, B, U, W, S, C, Y, P, H, E, X and XX.
Mileage appears in the top section of the sheet. A star symbol next to it indicates odometer reliability: no star means the mileage is considered accurate, one star (*) means it is unverifiable, and two or three stars (**, ***) means tampering is suspected. A dash (–) means the meter was replaced and the true mileage is unknown. Always treat ** or *** as a serious warning.
Yes — a physical or photographed auction sheet can be edited, reprinted, or completely fabricated. This is exactly why you should never rely on the paper sheet a seller hands you. The safe method is to verify the chassis number directly against the auction database, which is what JP Sheet does. We retrieve the original record from the source, so any edits the seller made to the paper copy are exposed.
A Grade 3.5 car can be a good buy if the price reflects the condition. Grade 3.5 means several blemishes and possibly some dents — normal wear for an older car. Read the damage diagram carefully: if the marks are minor (A1, B1 on bumpers and edges) it is fine, but if you see W3, U3 or multiple XX marks, the lower grade reflects real damage and you should budget for repairs or negotiate the price down.
The auction grade is far more reliable. It is assigned by a neutral, licensed inspector at the auction house who has no stake in selling the car. A dealer's description is marketing — they want the sale. When the two disagree, trust the auction sheet. This is the whole reason buyers verify the original record instead of relying on the dealer's word.
No. The overall grade is based mainly on body and exterior condition, not the engine, transmission or electronics. Mechanical issues are noted separately in the inspector's handwritten remarks (for example "engine noise" or "ABS light on"). This is why translating the remarks section matters — a Grade 4 car can still have a mechanical fault written in the notes.
A car that appears at auction several times in a short period is a warning sign — it often means buyers inspected it and walked away. It can also mean the grade or venue was changed between listings to present the car more favourably. If you see multiple auction records for the same chassis, compare them carefully. JP Sheet's Deeper Scan surfaces the full auction history and flags re-listing patterns automatically.
Enter your chassis number and get the full auction sheet report directly from Japan's auction houses — from $7.
