Imagine you’re buying a toy car, but you can’t see it first. Instead, you get a report card that tells you if it’s broken, scratched, or perfect. That’s exactly what a Japanese auction sheet is for real cars!
This guide will teach you everything about auction sheets – from tiny scratches to hidden flood damage. We’ll use simple words, real examples, and even some fun emojis to make it super easy!
1. What is a Japanese Auction Sheet?
An auction sheet is a one-page report card for used cars in Japan. It’s made by professional car inspectors who check:
🛠️ Outside: Scratches, dents, rust
🚗 Inside: Stains, broken parts
🔧 Underneath: Engine problems, leaks
📜 History: Accidents, repairs, odometer truth
Why It’s So Important:
- Photos can lie (shadows hide rust!)
- Sellers sometimes cheat
- The sheet never lies – inspectors must write all problems
2. The Car’s Basic Info (Top Section)
This is like the car’s ID card:
| Part | What It Means | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Make/Model | Car brand & name | Toyota Aqua |
| Year | When made | 2018 |
| Mileage | How many km driven | 45,000 km |
| Color | Outside + inside | White/Black |
| Transmission | Gear type | Automatic |
| Fuel | Gas/Diesel/Hybrid | Hybrid |
🔍 Fun Fact: Some sheets show if the car has cup holders or navigation!
3. Understanding Auction Grades (The Car’s Score)
Grades go from 1 (worst) to 6 (best). Like your school grades – but for cars!
Number Grades:
| Grade | Condition | What It Means | Buy? |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 | New | Never driven! | 👍 BEST |
| 5 | Like new | Tiny scratches | 👍 Great |
| 4 | Good | Some small dents | 😊 Okay |
| 3 | Okay | Visible damage | 🤔 Check well |
| 2 | Bad | Big problems | ❌ No |
| 1 | Broken | Can’t drive | 🚨 NEVER |
Special Letter Grades:
- R = Had an accident → Repaired in Japan
- RA = Had an accident → Repaired OUTSIDE Japan
- S = Rust holes (like Swiss cheese!)
- W = Flood damage (fishy smell!)
💡 Pro Tip: A “4.5” grade is between 4 and 5 – common for fancy cars!
4. Damage Marks – The Secret Code
The sheet has a tiny car drawing with letters marking damage:
Outside Damage:
- B = Big scratch (needs paint)
- D = Dent (like a soda can drop)
- PDR = Dent was popped out
- RR = Repainted (might hide rust)
Undercarriage (Underbelly):
- U = Rust underneath (danger!)
- S = Rust HOLES (like a colander)
- XX = Parts replaced (ask which!)
Inside Damage:
- RI = Ripped seats
- SM = Smoker’s car (yuck!)
- CL = Cracked dashboard
5. Japanese Notes – The Hidden Warnings
These are super important but often missed!
Must-Know Japanese Words:
| Japanese | Meaning | Danger Level |
|---|---|---|
| 水 (Mizu) | Flood damage | 🚨 EXTREME |
| 修理 (Shuri) | Repaired accident | ❌ HIGH |
| 走行距離不明 | Mileage unknown | ⚠️ RISKY |
| エアバッグ展開 | Airbags popped | 🚗 UNSAFE |
📱 Easy Trick: Use Google Lens to translate these!
6. Real Examples (Good vs Bad Sheets)
Good Car Example:
- Grade: 4.5
- Damage: Small “B” on door
- Notes: None
- Verdict: 👍 Safe buy!
Bad Car Example:
- Grade: R
- Damage: “U” undercarriage + “D” on roof
- Notes: 水 (Mizu)
- Verdict: 🚨 FLOOD CAR – RUN!
7. How Sellers Cheat (And How to Catch Them)
Some bad sellers:
🖼️ Photoshop sheets (change grades)
🌧️ Take photos in rain (hide rust)
🔢 Roll back odometer (fake low km)
🧼 Clean oil leaks (hide engine problems)
How to Spot Fakes:
- Check for wrinkles (real sheets are folded)
- Look for auction stamps (missing = fake)
- Compare price history (big drops = hidden damage)
8. Your Step-by-Step Check List
Before buying any car:
✅ Get ORIGINAL sheet (not copy)
✅ Translate ALL Japanese
✅ Match photos to damage marks
✅ Check grade vs price (too cheap? Danger!)
✅ Get a mechanic inspection
9. Final Advice
- Best for beginners: Grade 4-5
- Okay if checked: Grade 3
- Avoid unless expert: R/RA/S grades
- Never buy: Flood (W) or unknown mileage cars
Remember: If something feels wrong – walk away!
Need Help?
📩 Verify your auction sheet at [JPsheet.com]
Now you’re an auction sheet expert! Go find your perfect car! 😊