Every JP Sheet report includes the original auction photos taken on the day the car was inspected in Japan. These photos are taken by auction house staff who have no interest in hiding anything. Compare them side by side with the photos a dealer shows you today, and mismatches tell you exactly what happened to the car between Japan and the current sale.
This technique is one of the most underused tools in the import buyer's arsenal. Most buyers look at dealer photos and read the auction sheet separately. The real value comes from comparing them together — colour by colour, panel by panel, gap by gap.
Why the Two Photo Sets Tell Different Stories
📸 Auction Photos (Japan)
✓Taken by auction house employees — no seller involvement
✓No motive to hide damage — inspectors are paid to find it
✓Taken before any post-auction repairs or preparation
✓Shows actual paint surface — no polishing, detailing or staging
✓Multiple angles including undercarriage on some houses
✓Permanently linked in JP Sheet report — cannot be altered later
📷 Dealer / Seller Photos (Current)
!Taken by or for the seller — direct financial interest in sale
!Angles chosen to show best aspects — problem areas avoided
!Taken after preparation — polished, cleaned, repaired
!Lighting and editing chosen to minimise visible flaws
!May not show the same angles as auction photos
!No permanent record — can be removed after sale
Neither set of photos is inherently dishonest — but they serve completely different purposes. Auction photos document condition. Dealer photos market condition. The gap between what was documented and what is now being marketed is where important information lives.
How to Do the Comparison — Step by Step
1
Get the JP Sheet report with all auction photos
Verify the chassis number and retrieve the full report. The auction photos appear in the report alongside the damage diagram. Open them at full size — you need to see detail, not thumbnails.
2
Map the damage diagram to the auction photos
For every mark on the damage diagram, find the corresponding area in the auction photos. Note exactly what the marked damage looked like — size, location, severity. This becomes your reference when checking current photos.
3
Find matching angles in the dealer photos
Locate dealer photos that show the same panels and angles as the auction photos. If the dealer has not photographed a specific panel that had marks in Japan, ask for those photos specifically before committing to purchase.
4
Compare panel by panel — colour, surface, gaps
For each panel: does the colour match exactly? Is the surface finish consistent? Are panel gaps the same? Are all original trim pieces still present? Work systematically around the car using both photo sets.
5
Document and ask about every mismatch
Write down every difference you find. Ask the dealer to explain each one. The explanation tells you whether the difference is innocent (service work, cleaning) or something that should have been disclosed (undisclosed repair, new damage).
1. Colour and Paint Finish Mismatches
Paint colour comparison is the most powerful mismatch check. Original factory paint has a specific appearance under different lighting conditions. Resprayed panels — even very good quality work — have subtle differences in hue, metallic flake distribution, clear coat depth, and surface texture that become obvious when compared to original adjacent panels in photos.
!
Panel appears slightly different shade in dealer photos vs auction photos
Even a subtle colour shift on a door, wing or bonnet compared to auction photos indicates a respray. The panel has been resprayed since leaving Japan — either to repair damage noted on the auction sheet, or to conceal new damage that occurred during shipping or after import.
Compare the specific panel against adjacent panels in both photo sets — the mismatch becomes clearer
Check the auction damage diagram for a W mark on that panel — if there is one, the respray was for known damage. If there is no W mark, the respray is for something that occurred after auction.
!
Paint surface texture differs between panels
Original factory paint has a specific surface texture. Repainted panels often show slightly different orange peel pattern, higher gloss from fresh clear coat, or a flatter appearance if polished heavily. In good photo lighting this difference is visible.
Extra-glossy panel in dealer photos vs matte-ish appearance in auction photos — freshly resprayed
Panel appears more uniform in dealer photos than expected for its age — heavy polishing after repair
!
Auction photos show damage on a panel that appears perfect in dealer photos
If the auction photo clearly shows an A3 scratch or B2 dent on a panel, and the dealer photo shows the same panel in perfect condition, the damage was repaired. This is not necessarily a problem — but it must be disclosed. A dealer presenting a repaired panel as original undamaged condition is being dishonest.
Acceptable: "Yes, we resprayed the right door after import — the auction sheet shows A3 on that panel, here is the repair record."
Not acceptable: "That panel is completely original" when the auction photo shows clear damage and the panel now looks perfect.
White, silver and light grey cars are the hardest to spot resprays on in photos. Colour shift is minimal and lighting can disguise differences. On these colours, look instead at the surface texture and panel gap consistency rather than hue.
2. Panel Gap and Alignment Changes
Panel gaps are set during manufacture and remain consistent for the life of the car unless panels are removed, replaced, or the body structure is altered. A gap that was even in Japan but is now uneven is evidence that something changed.
!
Door gap that was even in auction photos is now uneven
Even door gaps in Japan, but one side of a door now sits wider or narrower than the other, indicate the door has been removed and refitted — possibly for hinge repair, hinge adjustment, or after a side impact. Alternatively, the door was replaced with one from a different car that does not align perfectly.
Check auction diagram for W marks on that door or surrounding panels
Uneven gap at the top vs bottom of a door suggests a twisted door frame or bent B-pillar
!
Bonnet sits differently — higher at one corner or different from wing
A bonnet that sat flush and even in auction photos but now sits unevenly or with inconsistent gaps to the wings indicates either bonnet replacement or repair to the bonnet/slam panel area after the auction. This is also consistent with a front impact that bent the slam panel or front chassis rails.
Even small changes to bonnet gap alignment suggest front-end work after auction
Combined with W marks on bonnet in auction diagram = repair done in Japan, alignment may have shifted again post-import
!
Boot lid or tailgate alignment changed
A boot lid that sat squarely in Japan but now sits at a slight angle, or the gap to the rear quarter panels is different on each side, indicates rear impact, boot replacement, or damage during shipping.
Asymmetric boot lid is a common sign of rear collision during shipping or post-import handling
Check auction photos for rear bumper condition — if bumper was clean but boot lid gap changed, new rear impact likely
3. Missing or Changed Trim and Accessories
Auction photos often show equipment and accessories that were present when the car left Japan. Comparing against current photos reveals parts that were removed, broken, or substituted between Japan and the current sale.
| What to check | Auction photo shows | Current photo shows | What it means |
|---|
| Alloy wheels |
Original OEM alloys |
Different alloy or steel wheels |
Wheels were swapped — original alloys may have been damaged or sold separately |
| Headlights |
OEM HID or LED units |
Standard halogen replacement |
Original headlights were damaged and replaced with lower-spec units — significant value reduction |
| Tail lights |
OEM units intact |
Aftermarket or replacement units |
Rear impact damage replaced original tail lights — check rear bumper and boot condition |
| Bumper trim / lips |
OEM bumper with trim pieces |
Trim pieces missing or aftermarket |
Trim lost during shipping or impact. Aftermarket replacement suggests original was damaged. |
| Aerial / antenna |
Original antenna present |
Missing or replaced |
Minor — often removed for shipping. Low concern but note for potential roof repair underneath. |
| Navigation screen |
Original nav unit |
Blank DIN aperture or aftermarket unit |
Nav unit removed — Japanese nav has no value abroad but original screens are sometimes sold. Verify remaining system. |
| Spare wheel |
Full-size or space-saver spare |
Missing or different spare |
Spare was used and not replaced, or removed during preparation. Ask for original spare. |
4. Spotting Undisclosed Post-Import Repairs
Damage that occurred during shipping or after import — and was repaired before sale — will show up as a discrepancy between auction photos and current state on panels that had no marks in the original auction diagram.
The key distinction is which panels had marks on the auction sheet:
- Panel has W marks on auction sheet + looks perfect now — repaired in Japan before auction, or repaired post-import for documented damage. Either way, legitimate — should be disclosed.
- Panel has NO marks on auction sheet + appears to have been resprayed now — damage occurred after the auction. The vehicle was damaged during shipping, during transit in the destination country, or on the dealer's lot. This damage was not recorded in Japan and is the buyer's first time learning about it.
Post-import damage is common and not always disclosed. Shipping containers sometimes scrape against each other. Cars are moved in port facilities where minor impacts occur. Dealer lots have their own incidents. None of this needs to be fraudulent — but it should be disclosed, and it should be reflected in the price. The auction photos give you the baseline to identify it.
5. The Chassis Number Cross-Check
Before trusting any comparison, confirm you are comparing the same car. This single check defeats the most common form of auction sheet fraud — the wrong vehicle scam where a genuine sheet from a good car is shown alongside a different, worse car.
A
Find the chassis number in the auction photos
Auction photos often include a shot of the door jamb sticker or the chassis plate in the engine bay. The chassis number should be visible. Note it down.
B
Compare with the JP Sheet report chassis number
The chassis number on the JP Sheet report must match the chassis number in the auction photos. These should always agree — both come from the same auction record.
C
Compare with the physical car chassis plate
Before final payment, read the chassis number from the door jamb sticker, engine bay plate, and dashboard VIN (visible through the windscreen) on the physical car. All three must match the report exactly — character by character. Any discrepancy means the sheet and the car are for different vehicles.
Ask the seller for a photo of the chassis plate on the physical car. When buying remotely before shipping, ask specifically for a photo of the door jamb sticker showing the chassis number, taken next to a current newspaper or your name written on a piece of paper. Any reluctance to provide this is a serious warning sign.
6. Differences That Are Normal and Acceptable
Not every change between auction and current state is a problem. Many differences between auction photos and current photos are completely normal results of transit, import preparation and dealer servicing:
| ✓ Normal — not concerning |
✗ Needs explanation |
| Car has been washed and polished — looks cleaner than auction |
Panel colour has changed from auction photos |
| New tyres fitted — different brand from auction |
Different wheels than shown at auction with no explanation |
| Service work completed — fresh oil, new filters |
Headlights or tail lights different from auction photos |
| Floor mats or seat covers fitted post-import |
Panel gap different from auction photos on any panel |
| Japanese navigation unit removed (no value abroad) |
Panel has no auction marks but appears resprayed now |
| Auction stickers or temporary Japanese plates removed |
Auction photos show damage that is now invisible — but no repair disclosed |
| Additional accessories added — aerial, phone holder |
Trim missing that was present at auction with no explanation |
Disclosure is the key distinction. A dealer who says "we resprayed the front bumper after it was scuffed during shipping — here is what it looked like at auction, here is the repair receipt" is being honest and trustworthy. A dealer who presents a resprayed bumper as original undamaged condition is not. The auction photos give you the evidence to tell the difference.
7. Questions to Ask Based on Your Comparison
After comparing both photo sets, you should have a list of specific discrepancies. Here are the most productive questions to ask the dealer for each type:
- Colour mismatch on a panel: "The auction photo shows the original paint on this panel. The current photo looks slightly different — was this panel resprayed? If so, what was the reason?"
- Panel gap change: "The door gap looks different from the auction photos. Was any work done to this door, hinges, or the B-pillar area?"
- Damage visible in auction photos but not current: "The auction sheet shows a W2 mark on this panel. Was this repaired? By whom, when, and do you have documentation?"
- Missing trim or accessories: "The auction photos show [headlights / wheels / navigation unit]. These appear to be different in current photos — can you explain what happened?"
- No auction damage on a panel but appears resprayed: "This panel has no marks on the auction sheet but looks different from the auction photo. Was there any damage during shipping or after import?"
Get the Original Auction Photos for Any Japanese Car
JP Sheet retrieves all original auction photos taken when the car was inspected in Japan. Compare them against what the dealer shows you today. From $7.
Verify Auction Sheet — from $7 →
Frequently Asked Questions
Why should I compare auction photos with dealer photos?
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Auction photos are taken by auction house staff with no incentive to hide damage. Dealer photos are taken after preparation with every incentive to show the car at its best. When the two sets tell different stories, something happened between auction and sale — repairs, damage, parts changes. Side-by-side comparison reveals what no verbal description or single set of photos could show.
What does a colour mismatch between auction and dealer photos mean?
+
A colour mismatch means a panel has been resprayed between Japan and the current sale. If the resprayed panel had a W mark on the auction sheet, the respray was for documented damage — acceptable but should be disclosed. If the panel had no marks on the auction sheet but appears resprayed now, the damage occurred after auction — during shipping or post-import — and should be disclosed and reflected in the price.
What does it mean if panel gaps have changed between auction and dealer photos?
+
Changed panel gaps indicate panel removal and refitting, replacement work, or structural change. Consistent panel gaps are a sign of undisturbed original body structure. Inconsistent gaps suggest work was done that may not have been fully disclosed. Ask specifically what work was done to any panel where the gap has changed.
How do I do the chassis number cross-check?
+
Compare the chassis number visible in the auction photos (door jamb or engine bay sticker) against the chassis plate on the physical vehicle and the JP Sheet report. All three must match exactly. If the seller is buying remotely, ask for a photo of the chassis plate on the physical car alongside your name on paper. Any reluctance to provide this is a serious warning sign.
What differences between auction and dealer photos are normal and acceptable?
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Normal differences include: polished and cleaned bodywork, new tyres, service work completed, floor mats or accessories added, Japanese navigation unit removed, and auction stickers removed. The key distinction is disclosure — a dealer who explains all repairs done is trustworthy. A dealer who presents repaired damage as original undamaged condition is not.
