Damage Marks

A and B Damage Marks on Japanese Auction Sheets: Complete Guide

📅 Updated April 2026 ✍ JP Sheet Team ⏱ 12 min read

A and B are the two most common damage codes on Japanese auction sheets. A means scratch. B means dent. Every used car will have some — the question is how many, where they are, and how severe. This guide explains every level of both codes, what counts as normal at each grade, how combined marks work, and what the location of marks tells you beyond the code itself.

How Damage Codes Work

Every damage mark on a Japanese auction sheet has two parts: a letter identifying the type of damage, and a number from 1 to 3 indicating severity. The letter tells you what kind of damage occurred. The number tells you how bad it is.

The number scale is consistent across all damage types on the sheet:

So A2 means a moderate scratch, B3 means a severe dent, and A1B1 means a minor scratch and minor dent in the same location. Once you understand the system it is consistent and readable across every auction sheet from every auction house in Japan.

A Marks — Scratches

The letter A records a scratch — any damage where the surface has been abraded by contact with another object. This includes key scratches, contact scrapes from other vehicles, car wash brush marks, stone chips in concentrated areas, and paint damage from branches or walls.

A1
Light Scratch
What it is: Surface scuff — clear coat abraded but base coat mostly intact
Visible: Only at certain angles in light. May look like a haze.
Repair: Machine polish often removes it. Touch-up if deeper.
Concern: Very low — standard wear on any used car
A2
Moderate Scratch
What it is: Through clear coat into base coat. May show colour underneath.
Visible: Clearly visible in normal light. Cannot be polished away.
Repair: Touch-up paint at minimum, panel respray for best result.
Concern: Moderate — affects appearance and resale value
A3
Deep Scratch
What it is: Through all paint layers to primer or bare metal.
Visible: Very obvious. Metal may show rust if untreated.
Repair: Panel respray required. Rust treatment if metal exposed.
Concern: High — will worsen if untreated, affects structural integrity over time

A1 on door edges and bumper corners is completely normal on any used Japanese car and should not concern you. These are the highest-contact areas in everyday parking. A car with zero A marks is either very new, very rarely driven, or the inspector missed something.

B Marks — Dents

The letter B records a dent — a deformation of the panel without necessarily breaking the paint surface. Dents are caused by impacts: door dings in car parks, hail stones, low-speed collisions, and objects falling onto the bodywork. A B mark without an accompanying A mark means the panel was pushed in without the paint being broken.

B1
Small Dent
What it is: Coin-sized or smaller indentation. Paint intact.
Visible: Noticeable in raking light. May not be obvious at first glance.
Repair: Paintless dent repair (PDR) often sufficient.
Concern: Very low — extremely common parking damage
B2
Medium Dent
What it is: Larger than coin-sized. Visible deformation of panel.
Visible: Clearly visible. Affects panel reflection.
Repair: PDR if paint intact, filler and respray if paint stressed.
Concern: Moderate — affects appearance, check panel edge alignment
B3
Large Dent
What it is: Significant panel deformation. Panel shape visibly distorted.
Visible: Very obvious. May affect door/panel alignment.
Repair: Panel repair or full replacement. PDR not adequate.
Concern: High — on structural panels may indicate deeper damage

B marks on roofs and bonnets in clusters almost always indicate hail damage. A car with 8–12 B1 marks scattered across the roof and bonnet was caught in a hailstorm. The auction inspector records each dent individually — so a hail-damaged car can have a very high total mark count even though each individual mark is small.

Combined AB Marks

When the same location has both a scratch and a dent from the same impact, the inspector writes both codes together. You will see these combinations most often on bumpers, door edges, and wheel arches where contact with another object simultaneously pushed in the panel and abraded the paint.

A1B1
Minor scratch and minor dent at the same spot. Very common on bumper corners. Low concern — typical parking contact.
A2B2
Moderate scratch and medium dent. Common on door edges from car park impacts. Requires professional repair but panel replacement usually not needed.
A2B1
Moderate scratch but only small dent — suggests a glancing blow or sharp object contact rather than direct impact. Touch-up plus minor PDR.
A3B3
Deep scratch and large dent — significant impact. Panel repair or replacement required. On structural panels this is concerning and warrants further investigation.

AB vs separate A and B marks: When A and B appear together (A2B2) the damage is at a single location from one incident. When A and B appear separately in different positions on the diagram they are independent incidents at different locations on the car.

How Many A and B Marks Is Normal?

One of the most useful things you can do when reading a damage diagram is count the total marks and compare them to what is typical for that grade. A car with an unusually high mark count for its stated grade is either graded too generously or has had significant wear.

GradeTypical A+B countSeverity patternWhat to expect
S 0–1 A1 only if any Essentially new condition. Any mark is exceptional.
6 0–2 A1 only Near-new. Very light marks only.
5 2–5 A1, occasional B1 Excellent used condition. Marks small and isolated.
4.5 4–8 A1–A2, B1, occasional B2 Good used condition. Noticeable marks but cosmetic only.
4 6–12 A1–A2, B1–B2, occasional A3/B3 Average used condition. Multiple marks across body.
3.5 10–16 A2–A3, B2–B3 present Below average. Significant cosmetic work needed.
3 15+ A3 and B3 on multiple panels Poor cosmetic condition. Extensive repair required.

Count vs grade mismatch is a buying signal. A car graded 4.5 with 14 A and B marks is not a typical 4.5 — it should be graded lower. Either the inspector was generous or the marks are concentrated in less visible areas. Either way, compare the mark count against the grade before deciding whether the price is fair.

Location Matters as Much as Severity

The same A2 mark means very different things depending on where it appears on the damage diagram. The location tells you whether the damage is cosmetic or potentially structural — and whether you should be concerned about hidden damage beyond what the mark shows.

LocationA/B marks here meanConcern level
Bumpers (front/rear) Low-speed contact — parking, reversing. Most common location for all A and B marks. Low — expected on any used car
Door edges Car park door ding contacts. Nearly universal on Japanese used cars. Low — standard wear
Door faces Side impact from another vehicle or object. Larger marks suggest more force. Medium — check door alignment and B-pillar
Front wings / fenders Front-end contact. Could be frontal impact or side-swipe. Medium — check bonnet alignment and headlight fit
Bonnet Concentrated B marks = hail damage. Long A marks = road debris or contact. A3 = possible front impact. Medium — check if W marks also present near bonnet
Roof Multiple B1 marks scattered = hail. Single large B3 = falling object or roll. Medium to high depending on pattern
Rear quarter panels Side impact at rear. Quarter panels are structural — check for W marks alongside. High — structural proximity, check carefully
Pillars (A, B, C) Structural pillars. A or B marks here are unusual and serious. Very high — structural concern, requires inspection
Sills / rocker panels Stone chips at bottom are normal. B marks here may indicate kerb contact or jacking damage. Medium — check sill integrity underneath

The Difference Between A/B Marks and W Marks

New readers of auction sheets sometimes confuse A and B marks with W marks. They are completely different categories and the distinction is critical:

A car with only A and B marks has cosmetic wear on original panels. A car with W marks has had accident repair work done on those panels. The presence of W marks is far more significant than A or B marks of any severity — it indicates the car has accident history, even if it does not receive an R grade.

The most important rule: Read A and B marks to assess cosmetic condition and repair cost. Read W marks to assess accident history. These are separate questions that require reading different parts of the damage diagram.

Price Impact of A and B Marks

Understanding how A and B marks affect price helps you assess whether you are being charged appropriately for the car's actual condition — and where negotiating room exists.

Mark type and countTypical price impact vs clean equivalentRepair cost estimate
1–3 × A1 marks only Negligible — within normal Grade 4.5/5 range $0–$50 (polish)
Multiple A1/B1 across body −5 to −10% vs equivalent clean car $100–$300 (PDR + touch-up)
A2/B2 on 2–3 panels −10 to −20% $300–$800 (touch-up or partial respray)
A3/B3 on 1–2 panels −15 to −25% $500–$1,500 (panel respray or replacement)
A3/B3 on multiple panels −25 to −40% — Grade 3 territory $1,500–$4,000+ (extensive body work)
B1 scattered across roof/bonnet (hail) −20 to −35% — hail cars sell at significant discount $800–$3,000 (PDR for each dent)

Repair cost in your country matters. Body repair costs vary significantly between Pakistan, Kenya, UAE, UK and New Zealand. A $300 respray in Pakistan costs $1,500 in New Zealand. Factor your local repair costs — not Japanese costs — when evaluating whether the asking price is fair given the marks on the sheet.

Reading a Real Damage Diagram — Example

Here is how to read a typical Grade 4.5 damage diagram with A and B marks:

Imagine the diagram shows: A1 (rear bumper right), A1B1 (front bumper left), A2 (left door edge), B1 (right door).

Reading this: the rear bumper has a light surface scratch on the right side — polish-able. The front bumper has a minor scratch and small dent on the left corner — typical parking contact, PDR and touch-up. The left door edge has a moderate scratch — needs touch-up or partial respray. The right door has a small dent — PDR repairable.

This is a completely typical Grade 4.5 damage pattern. Four marks, all cosmetic, all explainable as normal car park wear. Total repair cost in most markets: $150–$400. No W marks, no structural concern, no red flags. This is exactly the kind of car most buyers are looking for.

Now compare this to a diagram showing: A2B2 (front bumper), W2 (front right wing), W1 (bonnet), A2 (right door). The A and B marks are similar severity — but the W marks on the front wing and bonnet change everything. This car has had front-end accident repair. The A2B2 on the bumper may be from the same incident. This warrants much more caution, independent of the A and B marks themselves.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What does A1 mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
+
A1 means a light surface scratch — the clear coat is abraded but the base coat is mostly intact. A1 marks are the most minor damage notation and are very common even on Grade 5 cars. They can often be removed by machine polishing. A1 marks on door edges and bumper corners are normal wear and have minimal impact on value.
What does A2 mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
+
A2 means a moderate scratch that has cut through the clear coat into the base coat. The metal or primer may be partially visible. A2 marks require professional touch-up paint or a panel respray to correct properly. Multiple A2 marks across a car will affect resale value and typically indicate a Grade 4 or 4.5 condition.
What does A3 mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
+
A3 means a deep scratch through all paint layers down to bare metal or primer. A3 marks are serious — exposed metal will rust if untreated. A3 on a bonnet or roof may indicate hail damage. A3 on multiple panels suggests severe neglect or undisclosed accident involvement. Panel respray is required.
What does B mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
+
B means a dent — an indentation in the bodywork. B1 is a small dent (coin-sized or smaller) often removable by PDR. B2 is a medium dent requiring filler or PDR. B3 is a large dent with significant panel deformation requiring panel repair or replacement. B marks do not necessarily involve paint damage — that would be shown as an AB combined mark.
What does AB mean on a Japanese auction sheet?
+
AB means the same panel area has both a scratch and a dent — for example A2B2 means a moderate scratch combined with a medium dent at the same location. This is common on bumpers and door edges where an impact caused both indentation and paint damage simultaneously. AB at one location is a single incident, not two separate events.

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