Auction Sheet Guide & Tips

Expose repair tricks in “refurbished” vehicles Imagine buying a toy that looks shiny and new, but inside it’s broken. That’s what happens with some RA grade cars from Japanese auctions. RA grade means the car had a small accident and was fixed. But tricky sellers hide bigger problems to make the car look better than it is. […]

Imagine playing a game of Spot the Difference with real cars and real money. That’s what happens when you compare auction sheets (the car’s official report card) with dealer photos (the shiny pictures they show you). Some sellers try to trick buyers by making damaged cars look perfect in photos while hiding the ugly truths written on

Japanese cars with auction records not found online often hide serious risks like unreported accidents, flood damage, or even theft history. While rare cases might be okay (e.g., verified vintage cars), always walk away if the seller can’t provide the sheet and refuses third-party verification – otherwise, you might buy a car with dangerous hidden

When checking Japanese reports, watch for these auction sheet red flags: “W” (flood damage) means wet electrical problems, “R/RA” (major repairs) signals crash damage, and “XX” (replaced parts) often hides bad accidents. The “*” by mileage warns of possible odometer fraud, while “U” (dents) and “S” (rust) reveal structural issues. “K” marks mean shoddy repairs. These symbols are red flags – cars with them often become money pits. Always

Grade inflation happens when dealers make a car’s condition appear better than its original auction grade. At Japanese auctions, professional inspectors assign honest grades (like 3.5 or R for repaired), but some dealers later ‘improve’ these ratings by cleaning superficial flaws while hiding deeper issues. They might buff out scratches to upgrade a 3.5 to

Japanese auction sheets don’t technically expire, but their reliability depends on how much time has passed. While the original auction report remains valid as a historical record, its accuracy decreases as the car gets older or undergoes changes. For recent purchases, sheets under 6 months old are most trustworthy, while those over 1 year may

Japanese lease return cars at auction can be good deals because they usually have low mileage, full service history, and gentle use – often costing 30-50% less than new cars. But be careful: some might have hidden repairs, worn tires/batteries, or temporary fixes made just to pass inspection. Always check the auction sheet carefully, smell

“New Arrival” cars at Japanese auctions aren’t always as good as they seem—some have hidden damage, fake mileage, or were rejected at other auctions. Always check the auction sheet for repair codes (like R or XX), verify the car’s full history, and compare photos with the report to avoid scams. Don’t trust the “New Arrival”

Buying a car from Japan can be a great idea, but some people cheat at customs to make you pay more money. This is called customs fraud. It happens when dishonest dealers or agents lie about the car’s value or condition to charge extra fees. This guide will explain all the ways customs fraud can trick

Buying a car from Japan can be exciting, but many buyers lose money because of hidden costs. Some dealers and agents trick buyers by adding extra charges. If you don’t check carefully, you might pay much more than the real price. This guide will explain all the secret costs when importing a Japanese car. Learn how to avoid