Auction Sheet Guide & Tips

The “R” mark on a Japanese auction sheet means the car has been repaired after an accident or damage. It’s not always bad — many R-grade cars are safely and professionally fixed in Japan. But it’s important to check what kind of repair was done, see photos if possible, and confirm the car’s true condition […]

When a dealer says “no auction sheet online — it’s a personal import,” it’s often a red flag. Many sellers use this excuse to hide a car’s accident or flood history. In reality, most Japanese cars pass through auctions, and their records can still be found with a manual search. So if you hear this

Y1, Y2, and Y3 on a Japanese auction sheet tell you how big a hole or crack is: Y1 is small, Y2 is medium, and Y3 is large and serious. These marks affect safety and repair costs, so check them carefully and always verify the auction sheet (or use a service like JP Sheet) before

B1, B2, and B3 on a Japanese auction sheet tell you how bad a dent with a scratch is: B1 is small and easy to fix, B2 is medium and needs a pro, and B3 is large and costly to repair. If you see these marks, check photos, ask the seller for details, and verify

X1, X2, and X3 on a Japanese auction sheet show how serious a car’s windshield crack is. X1 means a small crack that can be repaired, X2 is a medium crack needing replacement soon, and X3 is a large spiderweb crack that’s dangerous and must be replaced immediately. Always check these marks before buying —

X and XX on a Japanese auction sheet tell you about parts: X means a part needs to be replaced, and XX means the part has already been replaced. These marks help buyers know if there are extra repair costs or if fixes were done well—always check details and photos, and verify with a trusted

H mark on a Japanese auction sheet means the car has faded paint — the color looks lighter or dull from sun or weather. Check panels in bright light, compare colors, and remember faded paint can mean future repainting or rust risk, so always verify the auction sheet (or use a service like JP Sheet)

P1, P2, and P3 on a Japanese auction sheet show paint condition: P1 is light fading or small peeling, P2 is noticeable peeling in several spots, and P3 is severe peeling or large areas of bare metal. These codes help buyers judge appearance, repair cost, and rust risk—always check them before you buy. Hello, future

C1 and C2 on an auction sheet tell you about corrosion: C1 means light surface corrosion (small spots you can clean), while C2 means more noticeable corrosion that may need professional repair. These marks affect safety and future costs, so always check the auction sheet, inspect under the car, and verify the history with a

S1, S2, and S3 on a Japanese auction sheet show how bad the rust is: S1 means light surface rust, S2 means noticeable rust that needs attention, and S3 means severe rust that can be dangerous and costly to fix. Always check these marks on the auction sheet and inspect the car carefully before you